Topic: The Best Baitcaster co*bos of 2023 (Read 29 times)
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For under $100 you get a reel with a braking system that prevents backlashes and a rod that punches above its price point. It’s a heck of a deal for someone looking at getting their first baitcaster or adding to their existing arsenal.
I’ve been fishing the 6-foot, 6-inch, medium-heavy rod, and I’ve found it to be very accurate and easy to cast. The rod is specced for 3/8 to 1-ounce lures, and while that 1-ounce rating is ambitious, I find it perfect for 1/2-ounce jigs and spinnerbaits. Even though I have many rods that are five times the price of this co*bo, I still routinely take it out on my kayak because of its accuracy. It has quickly beco*e one of my favorites for casting around docks and tight cover.
If you’re in the market for the best baitcaster co*bo for the money, this one is hard to beat.
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This co*bo isn’t for wading a flat and throwing jerkbait for speckled trout. This is a meat stick made for chunking bunker, diamond jigging, bouncing a bucktail, and pulling fish away from bridge pilings. The stout, but sensitive, rod is outfitted with a 300-size Shimano TranX. The power handle on the TranX is ideal for winching powerful fish away from structure or off the bottom. The TranX was a standout performer in this year’s saltwater baitcasting reel test, and I’ve been using a 400 size on my swimbait rod for the last few years. The reel is durable as a tank, with the weight and power of a muscle car.
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While you can save some money going with a packaged co*bo, choosing a rod and reel separately is the only way to create the ultimate setup for you. Here are some of my favorite co*bos:
The Megabass FMJ is a do-everything jig and worm rod with crisp sensitivity and refined finishing. I’ve used mine to throw swim jigs, chatterbaits, and Texas-rigged plastics from ⅜ to ¾ ounce. The Daiwa Steez SV TW ($550) was an indulgent purchase on my end, but one I haven’t regretted. Fishing that reel is pure luxury, and I just wish I could afford a few more.
The SLX DC has Shimano’s micro-co*puter technology that prevents backlashes and makes a cool sound when you cast it. Paired with one of the SLX rods, you have a co*bo that will run you $300, and fish circles around co*bos costing much more.
I’m sure you gasped when you saw a Daiwa and Shimano paired together, but that’s the beauty of building your own co*bo. You can choose the best reel and the best rod for your needs. The Coastal is the saltwater Tatula, and a solid reel for inshore fishing. The GLF offers a ton of performance for the dollar and, after using it all this year, has beco*e one of my top reco*mendations for affordable, inshore casting rods.
From bug baits to Ned rigs, this setup will toss them all. It’s the co*bo I grab when I need the insurance of finesse presentations, but don’t want to bring a spinning rod.
There are a lot of great big swimbait rods and reels, but if I had to choose one for hard baits, it would be this setup.
I’m going to make the assumption that if you’re in the market for a baitcasting co*bo you’re relatively new to baitcasters. So here’s a breakdown of the basics in selecting a rod and reel for your needs.
Rod power refers to overall stiffness, which translates to the lure weights a rod can cast. You’ll see these most co*monly as light, medium-light, medium, medium-heavy, and heavy power. The most universal power is medium heavy because it’s great for a wide variety of bass and inshore presentations. But if you’re mostly casting light lures you’ll want a medium or medium light rod. If you’re fishing heavy lures or heavy line, a heavy power rod is ideal.
A rod’s action is how it bends. A fast action will have a flexible tip section, and be stiffer throughout the rest of the rod. A moderate action has a more parabolic action that bends through the middle of the rod. Typically, a fast action is ideal for bottom contact fishing like worms and jigs because they’re sensitive and can drive powerful hook sets. A moderate action is best for something like a crankbait that needs a forgiving rod that prevents pulling treble hooks out of a fish’s mouth.
A reel’s gear ratio refers to how many times the spool turns for each turn of the reel handle. A 7.1:1 gear ratio means the spool makes 7.1 rotations for each rotation of the handle.
The trend in baitcasting reels is toward faster and faster retrieval rates. Where a 6.3:1 used to be an all-around option, it’s now considered slow. The 7.1:1 has taken over as the do-everything ratio, and 8.1:1 is the choice for powerfishing.
While some anglers will tell you there’s a right or wrong answer to this selection, there’s not. It truly co*es down to personal preference. For example, I’m right-handed and cast a baitcaster with my right hand on the reel. As the lure hits the water, I move the rod over to my left hand and crank the handle with my right hand.
I know that seems like an overly co*plicated system, but it’s not unco*mon. If casting with my right and retrieving with my left felt natural, believe me, I would do it. I would suggest trying to retrieve with your non-dominant hand to start because it is more efficient, but if it doesn’t feel natural, don’t fight your fate.
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The biggest fear for new baitcaster owners is the dreaded backlash where your reel beco*es a tangled bird’s nest. It sucks the fun right out of fishing. But you can greatly reduce the chances of backlash by following these tips.
Learn to use your reel’s braking and spool tensioning system. High-end baitcaster have adjustable brake and spool tension, but even budget baitcasters have knobs that allow you to adjust the spool tension for your lure weight.
If your reel has an adjustable braking system, I’d reco*mend adjusting it on the conservative side, which will reduce casting distance, but prevent backlashes. A good rule of thumb for a new caster is to tighten the spool tension knob until the lure slowly falls to the ground with an open bail.
If you’re spooling your reel up with a braided fishing line, be sure to use backing. By adding a few yards of monofilament to the spool before the braid, you’ll give the braid something to bite into and prevent slipping.
You can use electrical tape to prevent deep, day-ending backlashes. Pull a cast length plus a little more of line out. Then take a few inches of electrical tape and wrap it around your spool. Reel up the line you pulled out. Here’s a video on how to do it if you’re a visual learner.
Fluoro has co*e a long way, and modern lines are nimble, low memory, and low stretch. They’re an all-around great option for baitcasting reels. The exception is for topwater fishing where mono is better because it floats. Braid is ideal for fishing in thick vegetation.
Baitcasters in the $100 to $200 range offer a lot of performance for the money.
Twenty-pound fluorocarbon or 65-pound braid are good all-around line weights for 150-size baitcasting reels.
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Buying one of the best baitcaster co*bos is a great way to get started and save a few bucks. With practice, they’ll allow you to cast more accurately than a spinning rod, and many anglers prefer baitcasting ergonomics. If you’re on a budget, I can’t reco*mend the Bass Pro Shops Tourney Special enough. If you’re looking for something that will last a little longer and be more refined, the Daiwa Tatula CT/Bass Pro Shops Johnny Morris Carbonlite 2.0 Baitcast co*bo is my top choice.
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