What size do I need for my boat?
This co*es down to a number of factors, such as the type and size of boat, the amount of glazing, the number of cabins, the total internal volume, the boat’s thermal insulation properties, and the intended cruising area of operation. A good installer will survey your boat for all these things, do the calculations and make an informed reco*mendation based on his findings.
For a basic diesel heating system, using a single blown-air or water heater, a good rule of thumb is: 2kW for sub 30ft boats; 4kW for 30-40ft boats; 5-6kW for 40-50ft boats and 8kW+ for boats over 50ft. A similar rule of thumb applies to the ratio of outlets to kW, with one outlet reco*mended per kW of heating capacity.
When it co*es to A/C units, self-contained systems are normally best for boats with up to three main internal spaces. Sleeping cabins usually require 7-12,000 BTU while saloons usually need 12,000+ BTU. As a rough guide you need somewhere between 0.1kW – 0.2kW (300-600 BTU) per m3.
How much power do boat heaters and A/C units use?
For diesel air and water heaters power draw will always be highest at start-up. Most modern diesel air heaters from 2-6kW will use between 15W-100W but you need to add fan-blower consumption if natural convectors (radiators/towel rails) are not being used. Once core temperature is reached, they should run at 50% or less power.
The 50% power consumption rule applies to A/C units as well, which normally draw between 2A-8A when running a self-contained system of 6,000 BTU-20,000 BTU. Units with stop/start co*pressors have a high start load requirement that also needs to be considered.
Chilled water systems are often “variable speed” meaning there is no start load and units wind up from 2A to 30A or more, depending on the amount of cooling needed.
Do I need a generator to run them?
For smaller blown-air and water heaters, standard 12V and 24V leisure batteries are sufficient. Most air-conditioning systems will require a generator due to the high start-up loads, although with advances in solar panels and high-density lithium batteries this is no longer a prerequisite.
What do they cost to buy/install?
For a theoretical installation of a 4kW diesel air-heater with three vent outlets and remote control to a 30ft motorboat, expect to pay in the region of £1,400 to £2,100 plus VAT for the unit itself, and around £950 plus VAT for labour.
On a 45ft boat with a 10kW plumbed-in water heater with four blown-air matrices, expect to pay between £4,500 and £6,000 plus VAT for the materials and £2,250 to £2,500 plus VAT for installation. For a top-end brand, this would likely include a programmable timer and touchscreen controls for each cabin.
For A/C systems, the price variables are that much wider but for a boat in the 50ft region, expect to pay in the region of £35,000 plus VAT for four self-contained A/C units with 44,000 BTU co*bined and a new generator, plus around £6,850 plus VAT for the survey, installation and co*missioning.
A chilled-water system for an 80ft boat with 260,000 BTU and generator could be in the region of £100,000 plus VAT, with the survey, installation and co*missioning estimated at around £12,000 plus VAT.
Can I retrofit a heater kit myself?
While it is possible to install a basic heating system yourself, we wouldn’t reco*mend it due to the inherent risks and dangers involved. Jobs such as drilling a hole in the fuel tank for the pick-up or in the side of the hull for the exhaust outlet are best left to accredited professionals as the consequences of getting it wrong could be catastrophic.
Do I also need to fit fire and carbon monoxide alarms?
Even though blown-air and water heaters are sealed units, our advice is always to fit a carbon monoxide alarm as the gas itself is odourless, invisible and lethally toxic. They are not expensive and could save your life.
What’s the difference between a marine kit and a motorhome kit?
Although individual blown-air heater units for motorhomes and small boats are similar (identical in some cases), the installation kits for boats are different to vehicles for safety reasons and the two are not interchangeable. Boat kits from reputable manufacturers are made to marine-safe ISO standards and conform to latest regulations. Be extra cautious if buying online.
How do I go about getting my boat heater serviced?
Thankfully, most blown-air units do not require regular annual servicing. Occasional-use boaters should consider an inspection and service every 3 to 4 years, or 1-2 years for more frequent boaters and liveaboards.
Signs telling you it’s time for a service include failure to start easily and/or white diesel vapour or grey smoke from the exhaust. Burner units may need occasional cleaning in the case of poor-quality diesel.
Maintenance and fault diagnosis for self-contained air-conditioning and water-chiller systems should be carried out by authorised installers or suppliers of the relevant brand. They will have the appropriate software and experience to diagnose and resolve any issues.
Why is one of my cabins slow to warm up?
For blown-air heaters, one of the likely causes is incorrect duct pipe balancing. This happens when the outlet ducts in the problem cabin are a smaller diameter to those in the other cabins. This imbalance causes the warm air to escape into cabins with larger ducts, leaving insufficient pressure to reach the problem cabin.
With a water heater circuit, the pump and heater tend to be located towards the back of the boat and sometimes the hot water tries to find a shortcut, through a matrix blower, radiator or calorifier, rather than travelling all the way round the boat. It’s also worth checking screwdriver-type isolating valves are set correctly to balance the flow.
Who makes the best boat heater systems?
Webasto, Eberspächer and MV Heating are among the best known names for air and water based heating systems, all of whom we spoke to when researching this article. For air-conditioning systems, Dometic (via Fischer Panda), Webasto, Frigomar, Nauticool and Climma (Veco) are among the best.
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