Topic: The Best Chainsaw Chaps of 2023 (Read 34 times)
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Key Features
Pros
Cons
The Forester chaps were cool and co*fortable to work in. Class B chaps keep your legs cooler because the whole back of your leg is open, and it definitely makes a difference on a warm, muggy day. The single pocket on these chaps was just enough for a wedge, but because there is no opening at the bottom of the pocket, it can be a little hard to get it out with the flap closure at the top. As with all the other chaps, you can adjust the overall length by folding the waist belt over at the top to shorten them up if needed.
In co*parison to the other class B chaps, the Forester 437 chaps had a thicker, tougher lining material, which held up better to briars. Once I sorted out the buckles, these were easy to take on and off and get adjusted for a proper fit. At the end of the day, these narrowly beat the Oregon chaps for the top spot because they included a pocket and the liner was a bit thicker. If you’re looking for a solid pair of class B chaps, the Forester 437 chaps are my pick.
Key Features
Pros
Cons
The Zelarman class A chaps provide a great price point for full class A protection. They do, however, give up some features such as reflective stripes and a wedge pocket. During testing, the Zelarman Chaps were plenty flexible for bending, kneeling, and crouching but “grabbed” our calves a little when standing back up. We found ourselves hiking them up every so often. This certainly was not a serious problem, but it is worth noting when all the chaps are pretty similar. These would be a great chap for someone who is on a budget because they perform well and are nearly $50 less than the Husqvarna chaps. I found that these chaps in particular, shed water when I cut into a hollow log full of water that gave my leg an unscheduled bath. They didn’t seem to absorb any of it, which was nice since they were already a bit heavy.
Key Features
Pros
Cons
The Husqvarna chaps were very co*fortable and felt lighter than the others. The light weight helps keep them from sagging and bunching up at the ankle, and during testing they stayed in place while moving from a crouch, to standing and bending. The downside for these chaps is their very thin lining material. If the liners rip, then the protective layers can be damaged, which means the chaps will no longer perform the way they are designed to. But, that thin, slippery liner contributes to co*fort, how easily they slid on, and that they don’t bind—so it’s a trade-off.
The Husqvarna chaps certainly don’t feel cheap or poorly made, just a little less robust than the Yardmaris pair. That being said, they still manage to meet the same requirements and standards that the other chaps do while being lighter and having less layers. If you’re cutting for long periods of time, and weight is an issue, the Husqvarna class A chaps should work well.
Key Features
Pros
Cons
The Oregon class B chaps were very co*fortable and provided good protection. Bending and kneeling was easy, and the double-layer construction meant these weren’t sagging in the front. The thin and slippery liner made these co*fortable and allowed them to move up and down on your leg as you changed stance or position, but they didn’t do as well with briars. Really, the only factor that kept these out of the top spot for class B was the lack of a pocket. If you don’t need or want a pocket, and are just looking for some bare-bones, quality protection, the Oregon chaps would work very well. As with the Foresters, the Oregon chaps kept our legs cooler than the class A chaps, and allowed us to move freely while cutting and climbing and splitting. I have always liked Oregon bars and chains as simple, quality parts, and these chaps seem to follow that pattern.
The most important factor in choosing chainsaw chaps is coverage. If you will be climbing or cutting at strange angles or walking on large downed trees while limbing, then having the full protection of a class A chap makes a lot of sense. Arborists, for example, will almost always have class A chaps. But, if you’re just bucking some firewood, cutting up some fallen limbs, or even felling some trees, the protection of a class B chap should be adequate.
Once you decide between class A and B, then you can get into the smaller details like how many and what size pockets you might want for tools, wedges, and even a hatchet. Having those features can save a lot of time in the long run, and help you to keep track of your tools more easily. It’s not hard to lose a wedge or bar tool in downed limbs and piles of chainsaw shavings.
Lastly, we can’t forget that cost is a factor. Most chaps fall between $50 and $150 dollars. I always try to get the best I can afford when it co*es to safety gear. But, remember that the extra money usually goes towards features, and not necessarily protection.
The chaps have a specially woven polypropylene fabric that catches long strands in the teeth, winds up in the chain, and sprocket to stop the chain from moving.
That partially depends on the brand. Be sure to read the care label as some chaps can be damaged by a washing machine. If the front or back of the chaps get ripped, and the special fabric inside get disturbed or damaged, the chaps should be replaced because they may not work correctly if the inner pads are damaged.
Proper protective equipment can be the difference between a close call, and a call to emergency services. When I was about 16, I saw a co-worker remove his finger with a chainsaw in a split second, and since then, I have respected the machine’s power, and made sure something like that wouldn’t happen to me. You don’t have to spend a whole lot to prevent a whole lot of trouble. Do yourself a favor and pick up a pair of chaps if you plan on using a chainsaw.
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