Topic: The Best Knives for Field Dressing (Read 76 times)
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Last year I found myself on the side of a mountain with five others trying to break down two elk as quickly as possible, before the two grizzly bears over the ridge got too interested in us. Everyone had different replaceable blade knives, but about halfway through the first elk, it was obvious which of the knives was the best—the Razorlite. Its blades were the easiest to replace, and the mounting system was trouble-free. Other knives got gummed up, and the blades came off, but the RazorLite zipped through the two elk.
That’s an important consideration because while a number of replaceable blade knives will excel at field dressing, butchering is usually soon to follow. It’s nice to have a knife that does both well.
While the RazorLite isn’t the lightest replaceable blade knife—5.9 ounces heavier than a Tyto—it’s the most trouble-free design I’ve used. I don’t have blades pop off or break, and I can make it through an animal on one blade. When it’s time to swap a blade, you just press the button, slide the blade out, and slide a new blade in. The rubberized group stays grippy when your hands are covered in blood. The 3.5-inch blade is a good length for balancing maneuverability and cutting efficiency.
The ergonomics on the Blackfoot 2.0 are ideal, and it co*fortably puts your hand into a natural position without forcing you into a specific grip. That means whether you’re whittling by the fire or making that delicate initial cut while field dressing, you’ll have a co*fortable and controllable grip. Adding to the good grip are the sculpted G10 scales, which are a step above the standard flat scales on mass produced knives.
From the factory, the Blackfoot is very sharp and I’ve only needed to occasionally strop mine to keep it that way. It’s worth noting that Montana Knife co*pany offers lifetime sharpening. The full flat grind slices through meat like butter, and I think the blade shape is perfect for taking an animal from the field to a vacuum sealed bag.
The Blackfoot 2.0 uses 52100 steel, which isn’t the se*iest blade steel. However, 52100 has been around since 1905 and used for knives since at least 1940—so it’s time tested. According to Knife Steel Nerds, it has good toughness and doesn’t have the blade retention of higher chromium alloys. That means you don’t have to worry as much about chipping your edge when you smack into a bone, but you might want to have a honing rod handy while butchering. It’s also worth noting that it’s not a stainless steel and will need to be wiped dry before storage. So while many co*panies are quick to jump on the latest and greatest steels like Magnacut, it’s great to see a co*pany utilizing a proven entity.
A $300 knife isn’t a small purchase, but consider that if you care for this blade, your grandchildren will use it to field dress their first deer. That heirloom quality shifts the value proposition for me. If you want a USA-made knife and are capable of maintaining your tools, then the Montana Knife co*pany Blackfoot 2.0 is an excellent option.
A Tyto and spare blades ride in my bino harness and only co*e out when it’s time to put them to work. When the knife isn’t in use, I don’t even notice it, and that’s where the Tyto shines. It’s a minimalist knife that’s exceptionally light and slim.
The blades pop into place easily, and one blade will stay sharp throughout the field dressing. But you’ll eventually need to replace your blade if you’re deboning and skinning. That’s best done with a pair of pliers, the Havalon Blade Remover, or by sticking the blade into a piece of wood.
The sharp jimping on the spine provides a non-slip grip and an index point. While I’ve never felt the need to wrap mine in paracord or add scales, you have that option for even more grip traction.
I own the original Buck 110, a fixed blade 110, and the newer 110 Slim. They’re all iconic hunting knives that have proven themselves through hard use by countless outdoorsmen. In my opinion, the best knife for field dressing among the 110 line is the 110 slim, because it’s light, is easier to open thanks to the addition of thumb studs, and blood washes off the GFN handle easily. Fans of the original will be happy to learn that Slim maintains the classic, and rock solid, lockback design and endlessly useful clip point blade. It’s also one of the few knives under $50 that is made in the USA.
Buck Knives opened up shop in 1902, just four years after Outdoor Life, and the co*pany has had a loyal following ever since. If you’re looking for a classic that won’t hurt the wallet or weigh you down, you can’t go wrong with the 110 Slim.
If you want to upgrade from the 110 Slim also check out the 110 Slim Pro TRX and 110 Hunter Sport.
The only issue with using a small knife that has a relatively thin blade is that when it co*es time to split the pelvis of a deer, you risk busting that dainty knife’s tip (and with a replaceable-blade knife, don’t even consider cutting through bone). That’s where this affordable little bone saw co*es in handy. It allows you to quickly cut through the pelvis to ensure you’ve removed all entrails, without dulling or busting your hunting knife. There are a bunch of mini bonesaws like this one on the market, and they’re all pretty similar. I like the Browning Game Reaper because it’s co*pact and cheap. Deer hunters who aren’t hiking deep into the backcountry should have no problem shoving this blade into their pack. The sheath also has a belt loop in case you want to go very light and pack-less. The saw does co*e with a gut hook, but I’ve always thought that feature was a little silly and simply choose to ignore it. —Alex Robinson
Read Next: Best Hunting Knives
We could nerd out on metallurgy, but that’s a topic for another day. Instead, let’s focus on the two main types of steel: carbon and stainless. A carbon steel blade is easier to heat treat, it sharpens quickly, it’s less brittle, and it will rust if kept wet. Stainless steel takes more work to sharpen, won’t rust as easily, holds an edge longer, and is typically harder and, therefore, more brittle.
A 2- to 4-inch knife is ideal for field dressing because it’s long enough to efficiently cut while being controllable. The benefits of a longer blade are that it’s more surface area to use, and your blade won’t get dull as quickly as a result. The downsides of a longer blade are that it’ll be heavier and harder to make precise cuts with.
Clip and drop points are my favorite style for hunting knives because the tip runs in line with the center of the blade, which makes it easy to know where it is. They also have enough belly for slicing cuts. I’d avoid anything with a trailing point because they can easily poke holes in organs while making your entry cut.
I used to exclusively use replaceable blade knives and I still use them on occasion. But, I find myself leaning toward a sturdy fixed blade. The reliability of a fixed blade is bonus, and they’re much easier to clean after a long night of butchering. Fat and bits of meat end up in every crevice of a replaceable blade, even the Tyto, and it makes them a pain to clean out. The positives of a replaceable blade knife are that you can go from a dull to a razor edge in seconds. That’s especially beneficial when you need to work quickly due to warm temperatures.
The best knives for field dressing allow you to quickly and safely remove organs. That means they must be sharp, offer a secure grip, and make precise cuts. There are hundreds of knives with those qualities, but these options are my favorites for gutting and butchering.
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